RF Generation Message Board

I think the old thread got deleted with the server problems.

I went to a local car show today. It was pretty good for only NZ$5. Most of the cars were American Muscle, which I'm not especially bothered about but they were interesting.

One of the bikes there was the Boss Hoss. It had a 502cui V8. 8.2 litres for a bike? That seems ridiculous to me. So I went looking for some info on it.

http://www.bosshoss.com/view_bike.asp?x=BHC3LS445

With the 502 it weighs around 1300lbs! My car weighs that much! What happens when you drop it? I can't imagine it being any quicker in a straight line than a 600 sport bike. It certainly wouldn't be any more agile. The only purpose I can think of is for old men to say they have a V8 bike.

That's just insane. My bike is around 350 lbs. with a full tank of gas. I can't imagine trying to move around something almost four times as heavy.

I read on wikipedia that the 502 has 502 horsepower, but like you said, I think a 600cc would almost certainly be faster.  As much as I love big blocks, it doesn't really seem to make much sense in a bike.

Yeah, mine's a 650: http://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/Honda/honda_xr650lL%2093.htm

I remember seeing it a while ago on some show clarkson did in the early 90s, seem a bit pointless then and with no fairing anything over 80 going to be a pretty miserable experience.

I bought a brand new 2002 Jetta and I lurv it.

Crap bike just failed its MOT, front brakes are binding a bit but I was hoping I could get away with it this week and rebuild the the calipers next week.

Isn't it annoying when you go out specifically to enjoy a drive on some country roads and get stuck behind a queue of cars not overtaking someone doing half the speed limit, then when you get to a decent overtaking stretch they speed up to over the limit? And yet, when you're driving the same road to get to the destination rather than to enjoy the drive you don't get that problem.

People do that to me all the time.  Even when I'm just trying to get to class. It bothers me immensely.

After 12 years and 130,000 miles, the transmission has gone out on my wonderful little S-10. It started with a little trouble shifting into overdrive one day, so I had the transmission fluid flushed and changed along with the filter. All was well and good for a couple days until I went to leave work after a 12 hour day, and it would barely budge. At first I thought I was sliding in the mud because it was revving high but moving slowly, but sure enough, it wasn't shifting at all. After 10 minutes of panicking (it was dark, in a field on a gravel road, with zero cell reception) the tranny finally caught and I was able to get back to the house.
The next morning was all was good, again until I went to leave work. Same results as the previous day. Later that day as I went to go home (a 2+ hour drive) it was mostly fine again, with only minimal abnormalities going through 1st gear. Each time I had trouble, I noticed air bubbles in the fluid on the dipstick, which after reading somethings online, I figured meant Sears that changed it, either added too much or too little fluid, so I took it back there today so they could fix the issue. After a couple hours, the mechanic comes to tell me that because of the high mileage, what was happening was that all the dirt and gunk in the old fluid was actually what was making things work before the first flushing. And after flushing it, with that gunk gone, the clutch plates could no longer work properly. So its time for either a new tranny or rebuild this one, but he said with the extra labor of rebuilding this one, the total costs would be comparable for new vs. rebuilt. And of course, there's no such thing as a transmission shop that's open on the weekend, so I'm stuck until Monday. And since I'm working 2+ hours away and living down there during the week, I can't do anything from down there. So I'm either going to have to leave my dad with my truck and have him handle everything during the week and borrow his truck so I can go to work, or I'm going to have to see if I can take a couple days off work, which just means less money coming in to pay for the new tranny.

So basically, I'm now going to be around $2500 in the hole because I got a job. Hopefully I can make enough in the next few months to make this all worth it.

^ Sorry to hear that NES Rules. I really love S-10's and and hate to see one go.

The mechanic was right. Flushing fluid out of a transmission after so many years/ miles can be harmful to the trans. It's a huge misconception to simply flush the fluid when the trans starts to act up. At my work I don't even touch a trans fluid flush if it has over 90,000 miles or is over 5 years old. Unless I can find proof that it was done at least once before that mark.

The only thing I would do is change the filter and replace the fluid in the trans pan only. The average trans holds approx 15 quarts of fluid. By flushing the entire fluid out may be harmful to older vehicles. Just doing a filter service without the flush usually only removes about 4-5 quarts leaving most of the old fluid in place while replacing some of it with fresh fluid.

Honestly if you brought it to our place and we had done that flush, we would be paying for the trans to get rebuilt, because it would of been our fault for performing that service.

My first vehicle had a trans go out on it also. It was a '89 Dodge Caravan, yeah a Caravan, it was all I could afford. It had 331,557 miles on it with original engine and trans. Even though I could fix it myself for around $300 for a rebuild kit it wasn't even worth it. The vehicle was literally falling apart and I sent it to the pasture. 

Best of luck NES Rules

Yeah, now that you mention it, I'm a little mad they didn't even warn me about the dangers of flushing a high mileage transmission. If I had known, I would have kept it the way it was, at least until I could get a good cheap tranny to replace it with. Not being able to go over 70 mph occasionally would have been fine by me.

Funny that you mention the Caravan. My parents have had two Caravans, one was an 88 or 89, that they replaced the transmission in when it was fairly new (they bought the van wrecked and had it all repaired), the other was a 93 that they bought in the late 90's and the tranny went out on it about 6 years ago and it ended up being scrapped because of it.


I'm looking for a good used transmission now. GM used this transmission in a bunch of vehicles, so there are a ton of them out there, its just tough finding one with under 75,000 miles already on it. There's one on craigslist that has 14,000 miles on it and is only $600, but haven't got a call back on it yet.

I usually "exchange" my trans fluid every 10,000 miles or so.  I have a pump that I can stick into the dipstick tube (god that came out wrong) and suck out about a quart or two.  Then I replace it with new trans fluid.  I do have to replace the filter someday, though.

That sucks - I hadn't thought of it being caused because it was a high-mileage transmission. I was hoping it was just air in the lines, but it couldn't be that simple. :(

I got my truck back today after spending $1800 to get the transmission rebuilt, and all was fine with it. That is, until I put it in reverse. The first time it just didn't shift very smooth, but nothing extraordinary. But as I went about my business through the day, every time I needed to back up, it got worse and worse. Eventually, it would just shake the whole truck when in reverse and would back up, but it was like backing over a pile of logs. So its going back to the shop Monday.

Glad to see the S-10 up and running.

Hard Shifts are not uncommon with rebuilt transmissions. They never act the same after being rebuilt. But the shaking while reversing concerns me. Not familiar with that symptom. I don't work at a trans specialty shop but I would check that out for sure.

I've only rebuilt a few transmissions in my 5 years as a tech. But I've never had one come back to me with that complaint. They should check it out at no cost if it's a reputable place.

Other than that It's just a random guess for me as far as the problem goes. Kinda have to be there in person to solve that problem.

Still best of luck NES_Rules

So I got my truck back yesterday, after having the transmission rebuilt for the second time. What happened before was the brand new torque converter imploded and destroyed everything else in the transmission. But guess what? I took it for a test drive today and all was fine, until I noticed some smoke behind me, so I headed for home. The smoke got thicker and before I knew it, hitting the gas pedal no longer made the truck go. So I pulled off the road and look underneath to see transmission fluid pouring out. And of course, I forgot to take my cell phone, so I had to walk home, which wouldn't have been too bad since it was only a mile or so, except for the giant ripped open and bleeding blister on my ankle from work the last couple days.

All I'm hoping for now is that the transmission fluid pouring onto the exhaust pipe caught the whole truck on fire while I was walking home.

My god it never ends! Sorry to hear all the crap that keeps happening to you and the S-10. I would hope the people that rebuilt the trans would of taken it on a good test drive after they re-re built the trans to verify everything functioned OK.

Sorry to hear this...again. Good old S-10 needs to keep on going and keep you going.

Turns out it was something small this time. The transmission cooler line either broke or came loose so that's why it was losing fluid, so it should be all fixed by tomorrow. Hopefully I can go more than 25 miles without having a problem again.
But all this has got me thinking about whether I should just get a new truck, probably a Silverado. Ideally, I'd want a 2WD V6 with an extended cab, but they're either really expensive or have a ton of miles. But, while my dad was browsing for something I'd want, he came across a 2006 HD with a V8 for $7000, so he's offering his current one to me for $5000 if he buys that one. His is a 2003 V6 standard cab.

My dad bought himself a used Mercedes SLK 230K. Neat car. It has fancy AMG rims, even though it isn't an AMG model.

^ I rode the 230K for the first time yesterday. Wow, it's a pretty sweet car! Acceleration isn't bad at all.

Continuing on with the story of my truck, it died on me last Wednesday. We met at a McDonald's for work since we were going to a new job site and no one knew where it was. Just as we were about to leave, I went to start my truck and heard this terrible grinding sound (my boss later described it as sounding like a pterodactyl). At first I thought maybe the starter gears had just gotten out of sync so I tried it again, but same result. Fearing further damage, I left it in the parking lot and rode to the job site with a co-worker.
I called my dad to ask if he had any simple ideas that it may be. but he didn't know anything so he drove down to take a look. He got there, jacked the truck up to see if the starter was loose, and it started right up. Thinking it may have been a fluke, he left it running. While he was there, he noticed the transmission fluid was low, so we added another quart of fluid. He drove my truck home so he could work on it, and left me his truck for the rest of the week.
Once he got home, my truck wouldn't start again, so he took it to the shop that did the transmission. Turns out, there was a pinhole in the transmission line and the starter was going bad. While replacing the transmission line, the mechanic noticed the front brakes were worn to nothing (thanks a lot squealers for not making a sound), and when they replaced those, one of the brake lines broke. So it took them over the weekend to get that all fixed. And when my dad got the truck back, he noticed the alternator was squeaking, so he replaced that, and the serpentine belt since he had so much taken apart it was simple enough to replace at that point.
So now I finally got it back, and for the first time in years, my check engine and parking brake lights are off. Since I had replaced the brakes and starter in the truck before and had bought the lifetime warranties for them, I didn't have to pay for those, just the labor, so it "only" cost me $500.
Now if I just get a small exhaust leak fixed and get a front end alignment, my truck will be 100% perfectly running.
I kind of want to sell it and get something with 4WD since it would make more sense driving to a lot of job sites, but I love the fact that I can reach almost anywhere in the bed of my truck from the outside and I wouldn't be able to do that with a 4WD.

Subaru Baja?  ;D


On a serious note, glad to hear your truck is running well again.  I can feel that my rotors are warped, so I should probably stop being lazy and change them...

My aunt has one of those, I drove it once and felt like I was in a clown car. It was incredibly cramped inside for some reason, even my mom's Saturn Ion has way more interior space.

I think I'm getting the hang of this automotive-self-repair thing.

A few months ago I replaced the front seats in my car.

A few weeks ago I replaced both rear turn-signal-blinker bulbs.

And yesterday I put on new wiper blades.

I'm gonna really challenge myself by changing the oil and filter next.

I might even *GASP* check all the fluid levels, AND take a look at the air filter.

What can I say, I love livin' on the edge.

I've started wiring up the sensors to the ECU on my Duratec. The exhaust manifold is nearly done but the collector is stuffed so I'm going to redo it. I welded up a gear box mount that I'm quite pleased with.

To do list:
Order the new propshaft.
Finish the alternator mount and belt tensioner.
Wire in the ECU.
Weld the exhaust system.
Do some more wiring.
Install some sort hybrid cable/hydraulic clutch system.
Sort out the throttle cable.
Install the speedo sensor and get the speedo working.

Lots of little bits and then I can fire up the engine.

I have under 3" of ground clearance so someone is making up a shortened sump for me but I'm a bit concerned it's going to foul a particular chassis rail.

Started the new year fixing my ride a little by replacing the headlight bulbs and changing the oil. Went into it with guarded optimism, and left a frustrated, bitter wreck.

The first part was ridiculously complicated, as it involved taking apart the entire front end just to access the headlamp housings. Several things were held in place with plastic clips, some of which broke despite my extremely painstaking efforts to keep them intact as I disassembled the whole deal.

The second part proved impossible, as I was unable to free the oil pan plug bolt. Apparently, whoever last changed the oil put it back on so tightly, my attempts to loosen it only resulted in me stripping out the head of the bolt. It didn't help that, even if I was successful,  I'd have spent less money and time having the job done at one of those Jiffy-Lube places than I'd have spent doing it myself.

Long story short: This DIY stuff is total bullshit.  >:(

The oil pan bolt was likely machine tightened. Same thing happened on my buddy's Mustang and I stripped that bolt too.

Amateurs  ::)

Don't worry Zag I've seen some downright bad and funny DIY stuff get towed into my shop. At least you aren't the guy that put his brake pads on backwards.  Quote from customer "I just put new brakes on myself and their grinding really loud" Ahh, priceless stuff I see every week.   

What's really messed up is that I gotta hit the local auto parts store tomorrow to return the stuff I bought for the oil change. Looks like I'll be buying a new pan bolt while I'm there.  :(


Trust me, I would be that guy if I attempted to install new brakes on my own.

Actually, I'd likely be a lot worse; that's how badly mechanically declined I am.

It's a miracle I know how to put gas in the thing...

If your still looking to DIY just run to Harbor Freight and grab a bolt extractor set for rounded off bolts, their only a few bucks. It should be a 13mm socket you use on Ford Focus 2.0L engines. Grab a 3/8 ratchet with a long handle for extra torque to remove the overtightened bolt. 

I'm just gonna let the pros do the job this time 'round.

Maybe next time.

If I keep this up, my man card's gonna be revoked for life.

I spent ages trying to get the pulley off my alternator to swap it for a 6 tooth pulley. In the end I borrowed someone's impact wrench and had it off within a few seconds.

To do list on my car:

Finish mounting alternator and fit a suitable length belt.

Seal up the standard sump and fill with oil (The shortened sump someone is making for me is taking too long)

Finish the coolant hoses and fill the radiator (Just waiting for some hose reducers)

Swap the transmission oil.

Mount the new prop shaft (coming tomorrow)

Mount the clutch slave cylinder. (Still waiting for it to arrive)

Buy some petrol.

Turn the key. :D Hopefully I'll have it going on Sunday, and I'll have a video if it does run.

That's a good reminder - I need to pick up a bolt extractor set for the next time I run into that (didn't have one around, and we already had an appointment for another reason at the shop, so I didn't bother).

I was planning on changing the gear box oil today. First problem...

The filler plug is exactly in line with a chassis rail. Half an inch further forward or back and it would pop right out.

[img width=525 height=700]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8503/8342323243_e7687fa079_o.jpg[/img] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/brokenflight/8342323243/)


So I sat and had a think.

[img width=525 height=700]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8211/8342323153_b8003d43e8_o.jpg[/img] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/brokenflight/8342323153/)


In the end I undid the gearbox mount and wiggled it across enough to get the plug out.

I took the drain plug out and out poured a gushing flow of, wait hang on...

[img width=700 height=525]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8222/8342323015_bc10a66479_o.jpg[/img] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/brokenflight/8342323015/)



Err. Hopefully it's empty because the last owners drained it before they sold the gear box. Good job I checked. I also topped up the oil in the turret.



I'm waiting for a custom made shortened sump to arrive but it wont be here in time to start the engine on Sunday. At least, I hope it won't be after all I've gone through today. I lifted the front of the car up and dropped the standard sump down. Except one corner of the engine over hangs a chassis rail and the sump wouldn't come straight down. (See HERE (http://www.flickr.com/photos/brokenflight/6790013921/in/set-72157628996965597).) I had to lever the engine up a little so the sump dropped out.

I cleaned the sump and engine block surfaces then put a bead of sealant around the sump. Fitting is the reverse of removal. Except this time I didn't have gravity pulling the sump while I levered the engine. So I had to find someone to lever the engine while I was effin' and jeffin' on the ground trying to wedge the sump into place. I ended up covered in oil, sealant, and cuts from random sharp edges.

It's in place now so I'll get the oil in tomorrow when the sealant has set.


I also got the fuel pumps running and found that there are no leaks in the fuel system. You really don't want a leak with petrol pumping around at 45psi.

;D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHaHFEt5PB4

Way to go James!

I feel sorry for your future ankles, as they are going to be burnt off on that exhaust and all.

The one and only time dad had a ride in the car, he ended up with a massive burn on his ankle which lasted a couple of months. That was when the exhaust was on the passenger side. The problem is the exhaust exits exactly where you would put your foot down. It's going to need new levels of grace to get in and out, especially with the roof on.

I'm watching V8 Supercars on TV. They've made some revolutionary changes to the cars this year, such as independent rear suspension, and collapsible steering columns. As the lights turned green the commentator said "The car of the future is here!"

Muh?

My truck started making a weird "banging metal" type sound the other day, so I crawled under it and poked around for a good half hour, looking for a heat shield or something else that was loose, but couldn't find anything. So I gave up until I could get a jack and more easily look around. But the next day it was even worse. Since the rear end had been leaking and I hadn't check the fluid level for over a week, I feared that it had run dry and was imploding. So I dug out the little jack for changing a tire, took the wheel off and check the fluid, it was fine. While I was there, I thought I'd check the pressure in the spare tire, and when I touched it, it moved. The stupid winch thing slipped and the tire was just loose enough to bang into exhaust pipe and a heat shield, creating the mysterious sound. All in all, spent a good 2 hours on a 30 second fix.

Least time is cheap.

Got the title for a sweet 1998 Buick Park Avenue. ~176k miles on it.
Now i just need to try and get insurance and plates.

As for the insurance...
Allstate couldn't give me an online claim (lied said i had no accidents or violations but when Aubs tried to add me to her policy a year or 2 ago they said they would not insure me lulz)

Progressive wants ~600$s for a 6 month policy if i pay now (also lied said i had no prior accidents/violations)

i think Geico was ~650 (said i had one minor violation 2-3 years ago. Which is also a lie since i think i have had 1 a year. Last one was for not being buckled.)

Liberty Mutual i didn't bother with since last time i looked at them for insurance it was more than 2x the next highest company.

The General/esurance(now an Allstate company) doesn't cover MA

Jeez seems high. Think I only pay ~350 for 6 months.

http://cnj.craigslist.org/cto/3819130453.html

I'm dying laughing right now.  Someone tried to turn a '98 Neon into a Lambo.

I am surprised it wasn't higher to be honest.

I get pulled over probably every 6 months for something. If not more frequently. Only 2 things showed up when i finally finished filling everything out.
One was the no belt ticket from last year and the other was a speeding ticket from 2 years ago.

Got my plates today(got fast tracked at the DMV :D friends in high places paid off for once!) get to see how much gas this thing will guzzle tomorrow.

Hey there,

Wanna see what a driver-side floor mat looks like after 160,000 miles:

[img width=445 height=458]http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y409/Zagnorch/Floormat_zps2508a58d.jpg?t=1380325042[/img]


Aaand the driver-side floor after 160,000 miles and just one floor mat:

[img width=410 height=529]http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y409/Zagnorch/Floor_zpsd7cb0434.jpg[/img]


Now I'm off to fetch the shop-vac and a patch kit.

You seam to have a pedal missing too

It's America, we only have two pedals here.

Mustangs are about as American as possible, and mine has 3.

Haha, it must be stuck in the seams of his old mat!



I'll quickly remove myself from this thread now.

Sadly 98% of Americans don't know how to drive a stick manual. 

Oh, and we think diesel powered vehicles are bad for some reason... Something about semi-trucks in our country keep holding us back.   

I was taking the wee wee on it being an automatic. Tbh i dont understand why the majority drive them. To me its never felf like proper driving as your not as involved in making the car move or picking what gear and stuff

Agree entirely. Love my manual.

Anyone have any experience with VWs? I need to get the muffler fixed and don't know if I should just hit up a Midas or take it to a specialty shop.

Probably a reason why most Americans are terrible drivers.

I've been driving manual since I was 14. Back in my day things weren't much different.

So I talked to the local specialty shop and they sound like they've got their shiz together, but did admit it will cost more...

Not sure which route I should go.

By muffler do you mean just the back bit of the exhaust or the full thing? Either way anyone can fix it as they onky fix to the car by a few bolts and rubber 'springs'. or if its got a hole in it welding cwn be a bit tricky though as its thin crappy metal

I would just take it to a Midas because VW does not allow their parts to be manufactured by aftermarket suppliers.  You'd be getting a generic muffler at Midas which is what you'd be getting at that other shop, unless they are truly tracking down an original OEM VW part.  

-------------------

And since I have not posted in this thread yet, my wheels...

Daily driver is a 2009 Yamaha Zuma 50 2-stroke.  I got this as a gift to myself in November 2011 since I had ONLY used a bicycle for transportation that entire year.  I bought it new with the money I had saved not running a vehicle.  23 months later I have just passed 7500 miles.  I've replaced the factory exhaust with a performance exhaust and modified the carb jet needle, variator rollers and clutch springs to match, though it is not perfect and needs to be fine-tuned.  It can go 45 mph flat out if I tuck down out of the wind.  I've even done 80 mile day trips with it since 45mph on a Wisconsin country road is perfectly acceptable.  Average of 68-74 mpg depending on how hard I ride it and a few lesser variables.  Runs like a top and has been 100% reliable for every mile regardless of weather conditions, and I do ride it year round.

I do have a car now and it is a '91 Isuzu Impulse RS, gotten in September 2012.  I don't drive it often at all (especially now, read on) and only use it when going out of town really.  It is all-wheel-drive, turbo, 5 speed, 2750lbs. red, a coupe and is very fuel inefficient at ~20mpg average.  It has been modified from factory with a lowered and stiffer suspension and a newer/larger watercooled turbo (Garrett GT2554R) and all the accompanying modifications that are required by a larger turbo.  Peak pressure is set at 13.7psi since the ECU cuts fuel at 14psi.  Factory is 7psi.  Currently it needs a steering rack and I feel it is unsafe to drive.  Parts for these cars are kinda hard to find but this one is a solvable problem, I would need to take the steering rack out and send it off to be remanufactured.  Just haven't done it yet.

And I agree about manual transmissions.  Nothing can replace a clutch.  Sadly, they are in ~5% of cars sold in the US these days.  A bit tongue in cheek, but I think they should be compulsory and if you can't use one then you shouldn't be issued a driver's license.

Since we're all talking about third pedals and posting pictures of where our feet stay busy....

[img width=700 height=489]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5475/10076662535_1931669f15_o.jpg[/img] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/nupoile/10076662535/)


[img width=700 height=309]http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5541/10076697136_bc9726ed26_o.jpg[/img] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/nupoile/10076697136/)


That third pedal is made out of steel. That's what 950,000 miles will do to it. All the lines and lettering should look like the rubber-capped pedal to the right.


Maybe this is why Zagnorch doesn't have a third pedal, he wore it off.


Oh, by the way, I have a little bit of skill in the use of a clutch   :P

Well, I don't understand the appeal of manual, myself. Yeah, yeah, I know; you're all wondering what the hell is wrong with me. Seriously, I don't get why having one more thing to keep track of while you're on the road is a good thing. Call me lazy, but I like to keep things simple. I'm just fine with letting it choose the gear for me. Lets me focus more on the road, and the other drivers. And believe you me, I need as much focus out there as I can get.

It's natural to feel that way if you haven't done it. It quickly becomes second nature, though. It actually keeps you more focused and paying MORE attention to the road because you are responsible for keeping it in the right gear.

The only place I dislike it is in bumper to bumper traffic when you have to constantly shift in and out of first. Leg gets fatigued.

I'm sorry, but I don't see how keeping track of an extra task helps keep you more focused than not having to keep track of an extra task. Also, I don't want the extra responsibility, I have more than enough of it when I'm on the road.

Don't get me wrong, though. I wouldn't mind learning manual driving... 'cuz ya never know.

The act of shifting gears based on the events of the road and traffic around you ties directly to the fluid operation of your vehicle. It keeps you more focused on driving because if you do it wrong your car will stall or explode.

It's not an extra task as if you were making pancakes on the way to work, it's extra in that you're doing something that brings you that much closer to the mechanical operation of your vehicle. You start to understand how cars work much more, and you have more control.

I can certainly understand why someone would want an automatic.  As far as a manual goes, I don't even think about it any more.  It is... "automatic" at this point.  I do appreciate the finer control it gives me especially in inclement weather and also the feeling of being more involved with the process of moving the vehicle.  It forces a person to plan ahead and be more aware of their surroundings by reducing opportunities to diddle on their phone, take a drink of that Big Gulp, etc., something that would serve every road user well.

My automatic is only a 3-speed, so I have some sense of manual control over all 3 gears.

D = All 3
2 = First 2
LO = Just 1

So, acceleration runs are controlled by my rules, not some silly ECU that wants to upshift early.  I'd still love a manual in my car, though.  It would have been a 5-speed, and I can only imagine how much better the gas mileage could have been.  My best so far is 28.9 MPG, and I'd imagine that coupled with the higher final drive ratio and the ability to coast when I don't need to be in gear would put me well into the 30's.

Automatics have their place, like high-horsepower drag cars, but I'd much rather have a manual for the experience of driving.

Took her to a Midas and they're trying to charge me 7-800 bucks to replace the whole system. I blanched at the guy and he offered to splice and dice and weld on a pipe to fix the break for 200 bucks.

I called the specialty shop that I had talked to the day before and they quoted lower on the replacement, and actually will use factory parts, so I bailed on Midas. Only shitty thing is I have to wait til next thursday to get it in.

When my dad was taking me out to get hours on the truck before I turned 16 he gave me this Zen piece of advice that all manual drivers will understand. "Be one with the motor."

So I got the muffler fixes, my broken indicator replaced, an oil change, and a diagnostic check to tell me what else was fucked up and all for less than Midas offered to do the muffler for.

Yeah, so fuck Midas.

New to the community so I thought I would share. I drive a 2010 Civic Si 4door. Its a great car for being a NA engine and a good daily driver. I got it last year and it was coming from a 1 year lease so I got a great deal on it, it was certified used and in spectacular shape. I take the car in for regular service intervals (including oil) every 3k to 5k miles. Just had band new performance 40k mile Micheline put on mid this year. Just had them rotated Friday at the 5k mile mark. Earlier this year I had to have the transmission partially rebuilt do to the 2nd gear grind issue most of these K series transmissions suffer from. It's been fine ever since. Its a Rally Red color and earlier this year I installed some red foot-well lighting myself on a toggle switch, that adds a nice touch while driving long hours at night. After it is fully paid off in 5 years I plan to being light to moderate modifications, but at the moment I have no intention. I do predict a full transmission rebuild sometime in its future. It receives quite a bit of abuse. ;)

Oh and what was talked about earlier, I myself still prefer manual transmissions. The Si only comes in a 6-speed manual. So if any auto people are interested in this model of car, sorry.

Here is what it looks like
Car (http://www.chooseopensource.com/wp-content/uploads/si_2012.jpg)

I've been driving the dump truck at work more and more it seems like. Its surprisingly easy to drive, and it actually rides better than my S-10, its just got massive blind spots on the sides and I can't see a damn thing directly behind me when I back up. Watching the gas gauge go down is actually kind of fun when its company gas going into it too.

Went to look at a new truck yesterday. Its a 2003 Silverado 4x4 extended cab, with 120,000 miles for $4295, which is pretty much what I'm looking for. I drove it for a bit and the linkage to the transfer case broke. So the owner replaced it and I test drove it again today. Went for a good 20 minute drive in it, but was having trouble with the 4WD again, so he rode with me and gave me a little more instruction on using it. All was fine until I pulled back into his driveway and it wouldn't go back into 2WD, then smoke started pouring out from under the truck.

He wasn't sure what happened, but had said he just replaced the transmission cooler line. So I'm thinking the fitting broke or came loose and the fluid poured out.

When we left, we followed our last path to see how much fluid had leaked out and it was quite obvious it lost a lot of fluid, possibly enough to really damage the transmission.

Yipes.

I bought a new truck, so new that I tripled the mileage on it while I test drove it, and I only drove it 4 miles. Pictures coming Saturday when I pick it up.

! Mike has a track that's not held together with wood planks and duct tape?!

It took me a little while longer than I expected (but so has everything else related to the site) but here are some pictures of my new truck. Its a bit dirty, but its a truck, not a show car.

[img width=700 height=525]http://i.imgur.com/DRw4IhB.jpg[/img]
[img width=700 height=525]http://i.imgur.com/9odMgUr.jpg[/img]

Big difference from the old truck
[img width=700 height=525]http://i.imgur.com/9jJMvCG.jpg[/img]
[img width=700 height=525]http://i.imgur.com/FEdNzyB.jpg[/img]

And it wasn't held together with wood planks and duct tape. Though the rear door was rebuilt with ducts after it rusted out, and the wood frame in the bed isn't structural just organizational.